
Junoon in Manhattan Spices Up the Indian Dining Scene
Junoon ($$$)
27 West 24th Street between Broadway and Sixth Avenue
New York, New York 10010
212-490-2100 / www.junoonnyc.com
Rating: 9 Carrots out of 10
Cuisine: Modern Indian / Dinner Menu
The Background
Janoon is the vision of its chef, Vikas Khanna. Chef Khanna (formerly of Salaam Bombay and a guest star on Hell’s Kitchen and Throwdown! with Bobby Flay), a native of India, grew up surrounded by the flavors of Punjab and learned his family’s culinary traditions from his grandmother’s home cooking. Junoon, which means obsession or passion, reflects both the obsession and the passion of its executive chef. With a menu that seeks to capture the diversity of India’s multifarious fare and present it to diners in a comprehensive manner but with a modern twist, a meal at Junoon is an exciting experience for the palate. The restaurant, which was founded by Rajesh Bhardwaj (Cafe Spice), focuses on using organic and locally sourced ingredients that are produced sustainably. According to the restaurant, “Our guiding principle is to present a varied and intriguing seasonal menu brought from the farm to the table as perfectly as possible.”

The Scene
Junoon has the feel of a luxurious spa at an Indian resort. Designed by Tarik Currimbhoy, the space is modern but refers to Indian themes in a subtle and effective manner: sculptures carved from black limestone sourced from India, antique Indian swings made of hand-carved Burma teak and the highlight of the space, a 200-year-old hand-carved wooden arch from a palace in western India.

The Food
The food at Junoon draws from many of the culinary regions of India and incorporates the five elements of Indian preparation: Handi (pot cooking), Sigri (open fire pit), Pathar (stone), Tawa (griddle) and Tandoor (clay oven). Of course, the star of Junoon’s fare is spice. Junoon has an amazing “spice room” that contains the house-made spice blends of the restaurant, as well as all of the classic spices of India. All of Junoon’s ground spices are roasted and ground fresh every day. According to Junoon, “We see ourselves as ambassadors of Indian hospitality and in Indian cooking that begins with the spices.” And if you love the spices you taste during your visit, you will be very happy at the end of your meal when the restaurant sends you home with a gift box containing one of Junoon’s signature blends and a recipe for a special dish to make with it (though this did not happen on our visit – perhaps they didn’t like us).
The highlight of the appetizers was the Tree of Life Cauliflower appetizer – a large slice of crispy fried cauliflower prepared with a garam masala crust and served with tangy-sweet tomato chutney and pomegranates.

As entrees, we shared Paneer Akbari (house-made cheese served in a cream broth wih cashews and garam masala) and Punjabi Kadi (vegetable dumplings).

Although it is only a side dish, we both thought the best part of the meal was the Dahl Makhani (black lentils). Over all, the meal was fantastic. Aside from the quality of the food and the soothing atmosphere, it should be noted that the service was impeccable.

The desserts by pastry chef C. Angie Lee (formerly of Del Posto and A Voce) are also worth trying, though many do not appreciate Indian spices in their confections (we experimented with the spiced chocolate cake with chai ice cream).

The Drinks
The wine list at Junoon was prepared by Scott Carney, the restaurant’s beverage director. Carney was previously the general manager of Gotham Bar & Grill and is one of only a handful of Americans who have earned Master Sommelier accreditation from The Court of Master Sommeliers in London.
Junoon is a not-to-be-missed New York dining experience – and it is our new number one spot for Indian cuisine in the City (usurping our other favorite – Tamarind; read our review here). Enjoy!
J+L